Chef shares his culture and turns Oklahoma City restaurant into one of the best in US
JaNae WilliamsFans of Ma Der Lao Kitchen in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, have come to expect the restaurant to be a part of big conversations, and this week is no different as it once again makes national news. Along with 46 other restaurants across the country, Ma Der was included in the 2024 USA TODAY Restaurants of the Year list.
"I’ve said this before, but this recognition is validation that I am doing what I was meant to do, and that’s to cook Lao food, spread its culture, and to help bring attention to Oklahoma,” said Jeff Chanchaleune, chef-owner of Ma Der. “Receiving this honor only pushes that vision and goal forward. I’m grateful to be a part of Oklahoma’s and Laos’ journey."
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What makes Ma Der stand out
Ma Der's interior is casual and unpretentious, marked with pops of color and devoid of flash for the sake of flash, despite being the home to a two time James Beard nominee, and being recognized by both the New York Times and Bon Appetit.
After building a strong tradition in Japanese cooking, Chanchaleune, a Beard semifinalist in 2020 for a previous project and a 2023 Best Chef: Southwest finalist for Ma Der, returned to the Laotian food of his childhood.
The decision came as both an homage to his grandmother and a way to introduce people to something new. Using recipes gleaned from the women who raised him, Chanchaleune is committed to cooking from the heart and sharing his culture with others.
Understanding that people like variety, Chanchaleune isn't afraid to switch things up at Ma Der. He regularly brings in guest chefs from other restaurants in the area and across the country for pop-ups and collaborations.
The restaurant name itself is Lao for "come through," a common phrase from Chanchaleune's childhood and an invitation to stop in and share a table. Dishes at Ma Der are served family style, encouraging friends and loved ones to gather together and share in a meal they won't soon forget.
What to order at Ma Der Lao Kitchen
Crispy rice salad. Few things are more satisfying than rice with crispy bits in it. The crispy rice salad takes that realization and amplifies it by adding pork sausage, mint, cilantro, green onions, ground chili, lime and peanuts. It's served with lettuce so you can make amazing little rolled up packages of deliciousness, or just shovel it into your mouth by the spoonful.
Vegan or chicken laab. Yes, Ma Der has vegan fish sauce, and the vegan laab is just as delicious as the traditional chicken version, so you can bring your vegetarian and vegan friends and not have to worry about leaving them out.
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Grilled beef. Lemongrass and tender grilled rib meat come together in a perfectly charred bite. Order it with a couple of other meat options alongside the sticky rice and chili dips, and don't be afraid to eat with your hands.
Daily special. Don't miss out on the daily specials at Ma Der. Like everything on the menu, one order is enough to share family style with your group, but with warm comfort in the form of soups and porridges on many days of the week you may want to keep them to yourself. Friday is Freestyle Friday, meaning the daily special is whatever Chanchaleune has dreamed up for that week. It's typically a hit and often sells out, so don't sleep on it.
Details: Ma Der Lao Kitchen, 1634 N. Blackwelder Ave., Suite 102, Oklahoma City; 405-900-5503, maderlaokitchen.com.