Playful Southern classics helped make this Savannah restaurant one of the best in the US
Amy Paige CondonFor the past eight years, Savannah’s Cotton & Rye has built a reputation for consistently gracious service, a stellar bar program heavy on bourbon and whiskey, and inventive and playful interpretations of American South classics steeped in coastal Georgia foodways and traditions.
The Thomas Square stalwart is often overshadowed by downtown headliners or flashier Starland newcomers, but Cotton & Rye continues to be the choice of from-heres and long-time come-heres for friendly gatherings and special occasions, which is just one reason the restaurant was among 47 places nationwide selected for the 2024 USA TODAY Restaurants of the Year list.
Owner and Savannah native Zach Shultz had to do a double-take when he got the news. “I had to read it a couple of times, and then I was like, ‘Yeah, I think this is real.”
He credits his front-of-house and kitchen staff, many of whom have been with him since the beginning, as the reason for the accolade. “It’s super-amazing. Couldn’t be happier,” he said. “We’ve done a fantastic job, in my opinion … we put out a great product and service.”
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What makes Cotton & Rye stand out?
Shultz and executive chef Caleb Ayers share an abiding commitment to high-quality, locally sourced ingredients and in-house production of everything from crackers to cured meats.
Even when it comes to something as approachable as a cheeseburger, Shultz is passionate about grinding the beef in house. “We make the bread … the fries are hand cut. We know where the lettuce on that burger is coming from.”
Shultz's commitment to that level of quality and care germinated early in his culinary career, which began around the age of 12, when he got his start as a busboy at the former Café 321 on Troup Square. He helped out with the opening of Driftaway Café on Isle of Hope before moving to Florida to be near his family after his father, mother and brother moved to Tampa.
Shultz absorbed the lessons he learned working with the Big Time Restaurant Group, which opened scratch-made eateries from Palm Beach to Miami. He attended Johnson & Wales in North Miami, where he apprenticed in chef Allen Susser's eponymous outpost to New World Cuisine. He served some corporate time down in Key West and at the storied Louie's Backyard before returning home to the Hostess City to create a space that attracted locals.
That space turned out to be a midtown midcentury bank building that most recently housed a wine and cheese shop. The sleek industrial interiors belie the warm, convivial vibe and Ayers' contemporary riffs on the food he learned to make in his grandmother and mother's kitchens in western Tennessee.
What to order at Cotton & Rye?
Charcuterie Board: To really appreciate the breadth of talent in Cotton & Rye’s kitchen, you must start with the charcuterie board, which changes seasonally but is filled with made-in-house sausages, terrines, spreads and rye crackers. On one particular Thursday, the spiced pastrami (think cloves, ginger) and smoked pimento cheese carried a bit of nostalgia, hinting at those midcentury cocktail parties with cold, dry martinis and Manhattans. The lightly whipped ricotta, sprinkled with sea salt and cracked black pepper, landed like velvet on the tongue.
Grilled Trout: Cotton & Rye’s starters are so satisfying, choosing a lighter main may be in order. The skin-on filet melts in your mouth as garlic, lemon and fresh herbs play nicely together without overwhelming the delicate flesh. Roasted pine nuts deepen the flavors and add a soft crunch. This dish begs you to take your time and savor each bite.
Bone-in Chop: Succulent Osso Buco Pork Shank or a beefy Bone-in Chop? Either way you can’t go wrong, but what elevates the substantial chops are the accompaniments. The braised cabbage flecked with mustard seeds offers a tart counterbalance to the sweetened and silky apple purée that, in turn, draws out the bourbon molasses glaze. If you’ve ever wanted to taste autumn, this chop captures the season's very essence.
Fried Chicken Thighs: Although another upscale restaurant in town is making news for its fried chicken, Ayers’ chicken thighs pack so much juicy flavor beneath a shattering crust. Accompanied by a truly grown-up mac ‘n’ cheese that is both creamy and sharp, vinegary homemade pickles, and two regional dipping sauces — hot honey and buttermilk ranch — this is one dish that remains on the menu year-round.
Buttermilk Rye Cornbread: One hefty square of this textured, crumbly side slathered in rosemary butter and burnt honey can serve a table of four for the demure, but halfsies is the way to go for those who truly enjoy food.
Dessert: Tip: Share the above dishes so that you’ll have room to share one of Peanut Ayers’ artful desserts, whether it’s the Candy Bar (a decidedly upscale take on a Twix replete with gold dust); a tender slice of Meyer lemon cake with pomegranate filling, caramel frosting and wine-poached pears; or her creative interpretation of that staple of Southern potlucks, a banana pudding parfait layered with salted banana caramel and cinnamon whipped cream.
Did you know?
Where’s the party? Shultz and Ayers had long contemplated a side project, so they bought a vintage 25-foot camper and hired a firm out of Houston that specializes in outfitting food trucks. The pair dubbed their kitchen-on-wheels Hot Rye in the spirit of serving fun to-go lunches ― sandwiches, banana pudding in travelers ― three times a week out of the Cotton & Rye parking lot. These days, though, it's the life of the Savannah party circuit, serving everything from New Orleans street food for a birthday party to midnight snacks at wedding receptions.
Details: Cotton & Rye, 1801 Habersham St., Savannah, Ga.; 912-777-6286; cottonandrye.com